Winter Swell, Wild Rides, and Real-Life Ocean Stories
Hey surf fam, grab your board wax and settle in – we’ve got some tales that’ll make you stoke out or hug your leash tighter. This week’s lineup delivers everything from dreamy California sessions to inflatable mayhem and survival drama. Let’s dive in.
First up, straight from the heart of SoCal: seven minutes of pure gold from LA’s winter season. Filmer Brad Jacobson captured those perfect mornings where the ocean’s script just clicks – glassy walls, dawn light, and moments so smooth they’re practically cinematic. No crowds, no chaos, just you, the birds, and that primal connection every surfer chases. This edit is a vibe check on why we paddle out before the alarm clocks go off. You can see the magic unfold on his YouTube channel.
Now, for something delightfully chaotic: Jamie O’Brien is bringing back the SUPsquatch, the inflatable behemoth that turns waves into group playgrounds. Remember the Makaha mission over a decade ago? SEAL-team strength, Hawaiian legends like Brian Keaulana, and so much carnage a friend’s tooth became part of the ocean’s souvenirs? Jamie’s revived the madness at Sunset Beach, proving that the best waves are the ones shared with laughter (and maybe a near-death experience). This isn’t just surfing – it’s a party on a giant rubber raft.
But the ocean doesn’t always play nice. Case in point: a surfer in Puerto Rico who survived 30 hours stranded on offshore rocks after drifting away from his session. Found by the U.S. Coast Guard chopper, dehydrated but alive, it’s a brutal reminder that Mother Nature runs the show. Meanwhile, on Ireland’s Clare Coast, another rescue played out when a surfer got pinned on rocks near Riley’s Wave – a stark contrast to the golden sessions we all dream of. Both stories underscore the same truth: respect the ocean, tell someone your paddle plan, and maybe pack an extra energy bar.
So whether you’re chasing empty peaks, giggling on a giant inflatable, or just grateful to walk away from a session, these stories are our collective stoke meter. Stay humble out there, and keep the stoke alive. Surf’s up.